club
Camera header
TUCSON
Member Forum
date most recent subject
home calendar about gallery tips/forum links

“Ask the Doctor” Q&A
01/09/08 Subject: A Question about CS3 RAW Keywords: Photoshop CS2, Photoshop CS3, processing, RAW, RAW conversion, workflow
Question: I have a question on processing. I used to follow the following workflow on CS2.

Open RAW file - CS2 -> post process (WB, etc) -> save as Tiff file -> open Tiff file ... clone, crop, -> convert to profile sRGB< -> resize image -> sharpen -> save for web -> close Tiff file and do not save changes. My RAW file would not be affected with any of the above changes as well.

Now in CS3 ...

Open RAW file -> post process (WB, etc) -> open image in CS3 - clone, crop, etc< -> convert to profile sRGB -> resize image -> sharpen -> save for web -> close RAW file. When I close the RAW file, it asks me if I want to save any changes and I say “no” ...

The difference is that CS3 changes my RAW file anyway. I found the 2nd system faster as I don't have to save in TIFF ... open that, etc. I could go right from RAW and keep moving. Why is CS3 changing my RAW file?

Thank you so much for any information you can give me.

Leslie
Response: Your question about CS3 RAW converter is a familiar one.

In truth, CS3 RAW conversion has not changed your original RAW image. Nothing is lost. It is still there.

What happens is when you make the conversion, an auxilliary file with a .xmp suffix is saved which retains the corrections you made. This can be quite handy when you process the image again.

You can revert to the original RAW image by deleting the .xmp file (found stored with the original RAW file), or simply reworking the RAW converter.

By the way In following your work flow I note you do not save the processed TIFF file. Under the circumstances, you seem to be preparing the images for projection only. If you saved your work as a TIFF file it could be used for making a print without having to duplicate the work.

Regards,

Marty
to the top of the page
01/09/08 Subject: A Follow up on Prior Question Keywords: bridge, RAW converter, .tif file, .jpg file, image file format, workflow, competition prep, digital negative, .jpeg compression
Question: “You can revert to the original RAW image by deleting the .xmp file (found stored with the original RAW file), or simply reworking the RAW converter.” Where do I find this? I opened the RAW image and didn't see anything. I am opening these using the Bridge.

By the way In following your work flow I note you do not save the processed TIFF file. Under the circumstances, you seem to be preparing the images for projection only. If you saved your work as a TIFF file it could be used for making a print without having to duplicate the work.

This may have been the method of saving first in TIFF and then “for web” for a class I took. However, the jpeg file is smaller for storage. I don't know why I don't save the final production with the TIFF file as well ... it is just what the instructor said to do. Does seem to delete information.

Why have a TIFF file and a jpeg file anyway?

Thank you for your info.

Leslie
Response: ... I am opening these using the Bridge. You can find the .xmp file in the same folder as your image is stored. Try RIGHT clicking on START, and use EXPLORE to locate the file folder. It will be visible there.

This may have been the method of saving first in TIFF and then "for web" for a class I took. However, the jpeg file is smaller for storage. I don't know why I don't save the final production with the TIFF file as well ... it is just what the instructor said to do. Does seem to delete information.

Your basic work flow is fine, but apparently you do not really understand it. The idea is

A: If you shoot JPEG or RAW to protect your 'negative'. You do this by storing the original and then working on a copy. If the capture was in JPEG (a lossy format = every time you change and save the file information is lost).your best bet is to first save it as a TIFF which is lossless.

B. When you process your image it is best to process it in it's full original size, then save it as a TIFF or PSD file. This way you preserve 100% of your original information without increasing file size. If you shoot RAW, the file size of the raw file is 1/3rd of the full size processed image.

C. When ready, you used the processed image for whatever output you need. You downsize for the web or projection, and print at full image size or even interpolate upward for large prints. The larger the print, the larger the required file to achieve 300dpi for the image. (N0TE: 300 -360 dpi are often required to produce a print.)

Sharpening is the last step and is performed after the image is sized as it is size sensitive.

THE THING TO UNDERSTAND IS WHEN YOU COMPRESS A FILE USING JPEG YOU ARE THROWING AWAY INFORMATION FOREVER! INTERPOLATION (UPRESING) can simulate lost datsa, but is a poor substitute for the real thing.

Why have a TIFF file and a jpeg file anyway? The original JPEG converted to TIFF would be your safe negative as explained above.

The JPEG's submitted for competition are abreviated files which are suitable for monitor or projection but UNSUITABLE FOR MAKING QUALITY PRINTS!

Regards,

Marty
to the top of the page
1/16/08 Subject: Re: A Follow up on Prior Question Keywords: image file format, workflow, digital negative, jpeg compression, RAW conversion
Question: When you close an original jpeg, without putting it thru jpeg compression, you are saving your original "negative," as some people like to call it. It has all the original info. It may occupy 3-7MB of space. And "closing," not "saving," it alters nothing.

If your first step in processing is to save a copy as PSD or TIFF, you have saved your original info, exactly the same info, in a form which may occupy 20 or more MB of space. Its value is that if in the next step you don't like what you've done you can quickly step back to the "2nd negative" without having to step backward thru Edit or Layers History to Undo what you don't like.

Then you work on the info/image which remains on your screen— which is actually the 3rd version of the image— and after you have made all the changes you wish to make, you save this image again, still as a PSD or TIFF, and its size may have grown to 25 or 30MB. Your original 3-7MB image now requires 50-60MB,or more, total of space to store.

When you have decided how you are going to use your image, it is this 3rd version that is the one you will subsequently open and sharpen for printing (and save yet again, labeled for the size of print it was sharpened for— another 25-30MB of space), or compress (Save As in jpeg at an appropriate size/quality) for slide shows or e-mail.

Now the intended question: Why continue to save "negative #2," the one produced by saving the original jpeg as PSD/TIFF? Trashing it would free up 25MB of space, and as long as you labeled images expressly and you have this as your consistent workflow, is there anything lost? The original jpeg can be converted any number of times to PSD/TIFF, can't it? And if you accidentally hit "save" instead of "close" you can back out of this mistake by selecting "cancel," in the Save As dialog box.

Whaddayathink? Norwood
Response You are correct. Saving an original JPEG from the camera without altering it , preserves the original 'negative' file size and information. Bear in mind the creation of the JPEG image in the camera already resulted in compression and thus information loss.

If you then save it again as a TIFF, THE FILE SIZE REMAINS UNCHANGED! The only way the file size would be larger is if you interpolated it upward first.

I find myself wondering whether you are confusing saving a JPEG as a TIFF, with saving a RAW file (say 8 megs as RAW) that has been converted (approximately 3 times the size, i.e. 24 megs) as a TIFF.

With the exception of the conversdion of a RAW file to a full sized file which is like interpolating it upward, saving a file in a different format does not in itself change the size of the file. The exception to this is saving a JPEG file that has been altered in any way. In that case, saving it as a JPEG involves throwing away additional imformation to achieve the compression required. This is why it is suggested you change the file format of your JPEG 'negative" to TIFF and saving it. That way, should you make a mistake and alter the file before resaving it, it will not be subject to additional compression and subsequent information loss.

Regards,

Marty
to the top of the page
03/08/08 Subject: Color Correction: Shooting in Night Light Keywords: color correction, color filter, white balance, filter, RAW, RAW converter, saturation, Hue/Saturation
Question: Dear Dr. Digital Photography

I have a question regarding correcting for the yellow color cast when shooting an illuminated building at night.

I shot some images of old army barracks on the Adkins Property (Fort Lowell) that turned out with a strong yellow cast. Shooting with a Nikon D80, I have the choice of either automatic, incandescent or florescent for controlling white balance. I tried all three and the results were the same - a strong yellowing color cast.

I have tried the following things in PS (which has resulted in toning down, but not eliminating) to reduce color cast:
  1. Color correction in the Shadows/Highlight option of Adjustment.
  2. Blue color filter in the Photo Filter option in Adjustments
  3. Adjusting the color balance of the shadows, highlights, and midtones.
As I said, none of this eliminated the color cast. If I were to reshoot, should I use different White Balance settings? Perhaps some kind of filter? Is there anything else that can be done in PS? Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
Response: You did not indicate whether you had shot in JPEG or RAW. Shooting in raw eliminates the need to control color balance at the time of the shoot.

Because you did not indicate the ambient light color temperature it is difficult to suggest a color control during shooting. I shoot only RAW and do not use filters at all even though I own an awful lot of them.

If it was raw, the best place to correct your overall color balance is in the raw converter by adjusting color temperature.

If you have PShop CS3, you can do something similar using the RAW converter on a JPEG.

One very effective and simple technique for saturating, attenuating, or removing a color from an image is to use HUE/SATURATION.

Open H/S and then select the individual color you wish to change (yellow in this case). Use the saturation slider and the LIGHTNESS slider to get the effect you wish.

This approach will affect the 'yellows' all over the image. If you wish to just affect a window, select the window first. That way only the selected area will be affected.

I suspect the above will satisfy your needs. PShop has a number of additional ways to change or adjust selected colors, but generally the HUE/Saturation approach works adequately.

Let me know how it works out.

Regards,
Marty
P.S. If you wish, come and visit and bring a few images for us to work on.

to the top of the page
03/17/08 Subject: Adobe/Raw file management question Keywords: file management, picaso, RAW, batch, acdc
Question: This is a peripheral question to working with image files and I'm not certain its one you'll address in your site. Saw some great stuff in there so I thought I'd try.

My files have become a little disorganized. I have a fairly large directory tree with a number of subdirectories. Throughout this tree there are many filename duplicates as the files got renumbered starting with 1 each time I performed a transfer from the camera. Some files have .xmp sidecars and some do not.

I would like to eliminate this filename duplication.

I would like to rename all files in the directory tree preserving common stems where the file extensions do not match. The result should be that after the operation completes there can only be one DSC_00001.NEF and perhaps one DSC00001.XMP but there cannot be anywhere in the tree two or more DSC_00001.NEF files. Just so we're on the same page - a stem refers to the portion of a filename before the three letter .NEF extension. In the above description DSC_00001 is a stem and .NEF is an extension.

I hope my above descriptor is useful. I strived to be cohesive but may not have been. I will be glad to clarify if the above was not enough.

My question is: Is there any utility or method that you are aware of that I could perform this operation with? There are a couple of utilities out there that work well if you're pointing to files that are all located in the same physical directory but not if you're pointing to an entire directory tree.

Thanks for your time and patience reading all this,
John
PS Yes, I know I'll have to re-catalog afterwards.
Response: Hi John,
One suggestion is to try Picasa (free from Google). Picassa will automatically search all of your drives and files and then catalog your pictures. Once they are all organized (by date as well), you should be able to manually make your corrections.

I gather you are using file numbers rather than names as a general rule.

You should be able to BATCH rename in Photoshop to ease the job.

XMP side cars indicate a raw file was processed, (and how). They will automatically go along with the raw file it relates to.

One well known file organizer is ACDC. You might try that.

No matter what system you adopt, you have real work ahead getting organized.

I have adopted a few solutions myself:
I now use continuous numbering in the camera. These are saved as RAW negatives in dated named folders.

When I name a processed file, I append the number and save in a different folder.

If the file is completed and sharpened, I append the dimensions as well.

My completed files are saved in named & dated folders in the usual tree.

Duplicate images have a size in the name (which also indicates it was sharpened), or a different name if a different crop.

Hope this helps.